Hello all! I have not posted much of late. However, we have been busy with other obligations (family). Here are two out of three new tower routes. The following is located on the tower you pass (hikers right) on your way up to the little red rocks main walls--with all the Huecos.
The Watch Tower. It turns out that, the crack that had the blue-tat anchor on the back--north side of the tower was most likely put up on Aid, as the seam would require leapers to ascend. Therefore, Luca and I climbed the East crack, (gear to 3.5 Camalot, 70', 5.8), to access the towers top, not sure if this was an FA, but there were no visible indication of previous passage up this route--we are calling this East Crack. From a new anchor, we set the south face up to TR, clean / explore what if any of this face would be climbable. We ended up setting up a route, 10 bolts to an anchor, though the Hueco's--very fun climbing. It will still need some cleaning up as there was a good amount of loose flakes and small edges...we got what we could on the first round. This route will clean up to be a classic LRR climb for sure. FYI: The upper head-wall (the top 40') above the established new route, may one day go free, so I could see a second pitch at some point. This would be at least in the mid to upper 5.12 range. See photos below.
Boomer Remover, 5.10+, 80', 9 Bolts to Anchor. The rating could go up or down depending on how this route cleans up.
Of note: Steve J and I put up a amazing route on the
Tower of the Ancients few years back (just up and right from the parking lot--the tower tht has Petros on the North / Back side). Around and down, to access the West Face. This route will get its own post in the future. Need to locate photos. And as this will likely be one of the only routes to ever be put up here, we are just calling it Tower Of The Ancients***, 5.11, 100', FA: DJ, SJ.
