Saturday, December 13, 2014

NEW Wild Wild West Climbing Guide Blog

Damon here, I just put 90% of the entire Wild Wild West Climbing Guide on a new blog: http://adventureswithnomad2015.blogspot.com/ All Pages are posted individual JPEG format--so you can upload them to your photos in your smart phone and take with you--OR print them as you need. There are SO many new routes in these areas--entire new climbing areas. I will do the same thing with the Telluride Rocks III Guide (will post over winter 2015). PS--was out in the Wild West yesterday putting up new routes with Steve J. -- Awesome day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Monday, January 02, 2012

Remembering Chris & Charlie



From the latest trip to 16Z -- we love and miss you both!!

Monday, December 26, 2011

Little Red Rocks - Dec 2011: Photos by Jim Hurst




Hedge stone for Paradox Valley: R.I.P.






Climbing in the dead of winter in a long-sleve-T-shirt...love the west end!!!! Also check out Jim Hurst Photography

Photos of Damon Johnston and Tom Shane, taken with iPhone 4s

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Game Wall Update

Occupy Paradox, 5.11b (First Pitch Only); Steve and I headed up two weeks ago to establish a 300 foot crack route on the Game Wall. We ended up being snowed off. The upper pitches look like they will go in the 10 range. This is such a cool wall. THE EFFORT IS WORTH IT!

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Moby Dick



This September Steve Johnson and I headed up to establish a new route on the prominent tower to the left of Ingram Falls (above Telluride’s Via Ferratta) only to discover that the “plum line” (right up the buttress of the tower) had been climbed. There were anchors every 200’. We did a little investigating and discovered that Mugs Stump (et.al.?) established this route in the mid to late 80’s (when he came back into town after having climbed the tower and “told fellow climber that he had just put up a new route high up at the end of the valley”. No one then really understood where, or so it seemed, at the time the exact location of what he was talking abut. (Though I am sure someone did, it never made it into any of the guidebooks etc—not that it really matters). In any event, the route is 1000’+, 5.10a/b R, and has a lot of loose rock all over it—a classic alpine rock climb to be sure. It protects “ok” in places with wires and nuts—bring a double set, some cams are handy too, and wide stuff for the top. See photo. More can be done here—and will be soon.


UPDATE: I'm pretty sure this line was climbed by James Williamson and Bob Dergay in the early 2000's. When they did it they described it as the plumb line up the prominent tower below ajax with poor pro and anchors every 200'. I've got an email with the topo sent to Bob to see if he can verify. Might be good to know the FA info for historical accuracy. I'll let you know if I get any conclusive reports.

--Andrew Temple

Friday, October 01, 2010

Towers Of Ajax

The Crystal Line
5.9x, 900'; FA: Steve Johnson & Damon Johnston

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Wild Wild West Out Of Print



OK, it is time to come clean, The Wild Wild West guidebook, best known for its desert wingate climbs on Carpenter Ridge, Red Rocks, 16Z, Psycho Tower, EE22 rd et. al., is officially out of print. If you have a copy save it in a safe place. There will most likely not be a reprint of this guide. I will however, in my spare time, work on a guide to these areas for the net. This may take some time to complete, no holding you breath.