Remembering Chris & Charlie

From the latest trip to 16Z -- we love and miss you both!!

Little Red Rocks - Dec 2011: Photos by Jim Hurst

Hedge stone for Paradox Valley: R.I.P.






Climbing in the dead of winter in a long-sleve-T-shirt...love the west end!!!! Also check out Jim Hurst Photography

Photos of Damon Johnston and Tom Shane, taken with iPhone 4s

Game Wall Update

Occupy Paradox, 5.11b (First Pitch Only); Steve and I headed up two weeks ago to establish a 300 foot crack route on the Game Wall. We ended up being snowed off. The upper pitches look like they will go in the 10 range. This is such a cool wall. THE EFFORT IS WORTH IT!

Moby Dick

This September Steve Johnson and I headed up to establish a new route on the prominent tower to the left of Ingram Falls (above Telluride’s Via Ferratta) only to discover that the “plum line” (right up the buttress of the tower) had been climbed. There were anchors every 200’. We did a little investigating and discovered that Mugs Stump (et.al.?) established this route in the mid to late 80’s (when he came back into town after having climbed the tower and “told fellow climber that he had just put up a new route high up at the end of the valley”. No one then really understood where, or so it seemed, at the time the exact location of what he was talking abut. (Though I am sure someone did, it never made it into any of the guidebooks etc—not that it really matters). In any event, the route is 1000’+, 5.10a/b R, and has a lot of loose rock all over it—a classic alpine rock climb to be sure. It protects “ok” in places with wires and nuts—bring a double set, some cams are handy too, and wide stuff for the top. See photo. More can be done here—and will be soon.

UPDATE: I'm pretty sure this line was climbed by James Williamson and Bob Dergay in the early 2000's. When they did it they described it as the plumb line up the prominent tower below ajax with poor pro and anchors every 200'. I've got an email with the topo sent to Bob to see if he can verify. Might be good to know the FA info for historical accuracy. I'll let you know if I get any conclusive reports.

--Andrew Temple

Towers Of Ajax

The Crystal Line
5.9x, 900'; FA: Steve Johnson & Damon Johnston

Wild Wild West Out Of Print

OK, it is time to come clean, The Wild Wild West guidebook, best known for its desert wingate climbs on Carpenter Ridge, Red Rocks, 16Z, Psycho Tower, EE22 rd et. al., is officially out of print. If you have a copy save it in a safe place. There will most likely not be a reprint of this guide. I will however, in my spare time, work on a guide to these areas for the net. This may take some time to complete, no holding you breath.

Carly Crag - Just Outside Rico Colorado

The Carly Crag is a treasure of a climbing area. Though there are not a ton of routs there, they are all worth the drive and small approach. 9 miles outside of Rico (heading towards Cortez) on the left is Hillside Road. Drive up Hillside Rd for exactly 9 miles, this will bring you to the middle of a switchback—you will be right in between both cliffs. They can be found on the right side of the road. Hike down the steep bank to access the top of the cliffs (each cliff has a trail of sorts heading down to the right allowing access to the cliff base). Many good routes from 5.9 to 5.12+). We have not named all of the routes yet, but I will make a Topo at some point in the future. The area is shaded by trees in summer (nice cool place). Bugs can be present at times. This area has been kept on the DL for years. Photos by C. Fowler 2006).