Thursday, March 30, 2006

Temporary Closure Of Mary Jane Draw

Paul Morey, Wildlife Biologist for the Dolores Public Lands Office Wrote:

“ …because the [peregrine's ] nest is likely somewhere within the Mary Jane Draw, we are going to have to put a closure into effect for the draw until the end of July. We will continue to monitor the canyon and if we decide the eyrie is either not in or near the draw, or we determine the eyrie has failed, the closure can be lifted before the end of July. Being a climber myself, it's always hard to put even temporary closures on climbing areas. But in this case, it's necessary for the peregrine's protection”.

I will update this blog if the closure is lifted before the end of July.

San Juan National Forest
San Juan BLM Resource Area
P.O. Box 210
Dolores, CO 81323
(970) 882-6853

(photo of Mark Dean on the Wonderer 5.10, Mary Jane Draw)

Tuesday, March 28, 2006


Location: Southeastern Utah.The crack gods looked upon us favorably this past weekend. Mark Dean and I had the great honor of climbing several new high quality pitches, on pristine wingate rock, for the first time. We did not arrive at the cliff base until just after 1:00 pm on Friday. The route we climbed that day we called Formula One, 5.11+, two pitches. Pitch 1: fingers in a corner (140’). Pitch 2: OW to wide hands with a very tricky exit at the top—100’—see photo of Mark as he begins the OW of the second pitch. Just to the left of this route is a fun 140’ high 5.9 (no-name yet). And a bit further west we fired up an amazing hand crack for 105’—called Bucket Of Lizards, 5.10+ (see photo of DJ on the sharp end, photo by Daiva Chesonis).

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Destroyed Simplicity

Up on Carpenter Ridge, new route activity is ongoing. Ben Clark and I established a new route to the east of the Paradise Wall-on the Bonanza Wall. We called it Destroyed Simplicity, 5.11, C1. The C1 will go free once the route sees a bit more cleaning. There is at least one additional pitch to add to this route, as well as a fun looking (but wide) two pitch route to the east of our route. At the moment, all roads to this area are over private property. There where no "NO Truspassing" sings on the way Ben and I used to make the approach drive. To date there are only a few routes in this area (as of March 18, 2006).

Also, Charlie Fowler and Chris Boskoff were busy putting the finishing touches on beautiful new route they called The Badger State, 5.11. To read more about their adventure Click-Here.

Sunday, March 05, 2006

The Sunshine Slabs Update

3-4-06: These incredibly fun slabs can be found just 5.5 north of Paradox Valley just off Y11 and/or River Road. This area has many moderate to easy climbs (5.8 to 5.10), most are two pitches and Manic Monday, the areas highest route, climbs three fun pitches up 300 feet. This week Charlie and I added two 70’ pitches to Road To Nowhere (5.8+). The first pitch is really an “approach pitch” to better climbing above. To the far right (past Manic Monday) we added a stellar 70’ arête/face climb we called Dog-Collared Women, 5.8. These south facing slabs provide the perfect location for winter rock climbing in the sun. Many of these routes require natural protection…for more info visit Wild Wild West Guide Book.

Wednesday, March 01, 2006

Telluride Ice Conditions Winter 2006

3-2-06: Temps were in the upper 50's and it did not freez last night. This does not look good for ice conditions. NOAA's forcast for Friday

3-3-06: 20% of chance of snow, high is 39 degrees (F), cooling in the evening, only to heat up through the weekend. I will make an update to this next week.

3-5-05: Well, the temps here were in the 50's (over that in the sun). A good friend of mine, Ben Clark, went out to climb at the Ames Falls and reported the climb was a dripping mess. Unless we get some cold temps several days in a row there may not be a recovery for the Ice in and around Telluride. Over all rating is poor-on the way to nonexistant.

3-8-06: Temps cooled off last night and as of 8:00am there was about 7 inches of new snow in the Telluride Area (and there is no sign of it slowing). Not sure if this will help the ice conditions, but the skiing conditions are improved (for a few days). Snow and cooler temps are in the forcast for rest of this week.

3-12-06: The Telluride area has had more than 30 inches of new snow (and it snowed last night for some time). The ice has improved some in that time. Cooler temps and no sun over the past several days has stopped rapped retreat of ice. In fact, new ice has accumulated on some routes. Overall conditions are still Poor, but are heading up the scale twards Moderate. The skiing in the Area is the best it has been all year!

3-15-06: Temps were warm on Tuesday the 14th, melting a lot of ice (anything in the sun). My good friend Charlie had this to say about the ice conditions "We went to Ames Falls yesterday morning [12th] and did a bunch of laps. The ice was cold but brittle and junky from too many warm days". Last night temps were warm (it did not freez at 9000'). Today will bring more warm temps. Ice conditions are still Poor in the Telluride area and are heading fast towards "hang up your ice tools, break out your cams".

3-22-06: The Ice has grown a bit (see new photos). Over all conditions are still Poor. This week, temps have been cool and the area has seen some cloud cover. Heading out to the desert this weekend.