Disappointment Valley Bouldering At Its Best

Many new boulder problems have been going up. FA's include: Dynostatic V7, Beast Within V4+, Stonehenge V4-, and many more. What killer problems!

New ! Mountain Star – A Kids Book About Mountaineering

New ! Mountain Star – A Kids Book About Mountaineering
A true story about a mountaineer (Charlie Fowler) that will teach children how to draw a perfect star. For ages 4 to 7.

• TV interview with author Ginny Fowler Hicks
• Read more about Mountain Star
• Montrose Daily News - A Star Is born
• Mail Tribune-Mountain Star
• Jackson County OR - Press
• Where To Buy Mountain Star

New Bouldering In Telluride—The Tree House Boulders

There is something new in the Telluride area—the discovery of over 30 amazing, tall, and bullet hard boulders just above the Mill Creek Rd. Only a month or so in the making, it has impressed at every new problem. Here is a map and a few photos of what we are up to. The boulders range from short 10’ to 30’ high. There are about 50 new problems to date—changing every day. The hardest grade at the moment is V3 (this will change as we continue to clean new problems—there will be several hard up to V9+ problems).

Lizard Head, San Juan, Colorado – Summit Register – 1998 – 2007

This spring (2008) Keith Brown and I climbed Lizard Head. It had been a few years for me and Keith had last stood on the summit in 1979. When we arrived at the top and opened up the summit register cylinder we discovered a rich history of ascents at risk of being lost forever. The years of wind, rain, snow, and electrical storms have managed to penetrate the solid 1/4 inch thick and capped iron cylinder—to our dismay many of the contents inside the cylinder were damp, torn, and in overall shabby condition. To preserve the register information from being lost forever to the elements I decided to take the register notes and photo-archive them for future generation to enjoy. These register notes have a date-range from 1998 to 2007/08—we did leave the most recent register note in place. Please enjoy the many interesting discoveries about who has climbed lizard head and their impressions of their experiences. Who knows, you may see something that you put down during your own ascent?

Norwood Rodeo 2008

If you ever find yourself in Southwest Colorado in Mid-July, find a reason to stay and enjoy the Norwood Rodeo. With professional riders from all over the United States you will not want for entertainment--watch as cowboys and cowgirls show off their hard earned skills atop horses and bulls know for their abilities to through-off the best of riders. For more info checkout: http://www.norwoodcolorado.com/

Rock Climbing 16Z, Colorado

It is desert climbing season once again. Here is a map to the 16Z area climbs. The Wild West Guide Book only has a verbal description of how to get there. This map should help you find your way. Simply click on the map and print it out. There are over 200 routes in the area. Grades range from 5.5 to 5.13. At least 60% of the routes here are 5.10 or below. 40% are traditional/ 60% are sport or bolt protected. Have fun and climb safe.

THE GAME WALL-PARADOX VALLEY, COLORADO

From left to right: Tetris, 5.11a; Gameboy, 5.10a; Pong TR, 5.11+; Clue 5.10c; MIDDLE FINGER AREA: Trivial Pursuit, 5.11+ (climbs the face right up the Middle Finger); Sorry, 5.10+ O/W; Shoots & Ladders, 5.9.


Just a few days ago (Sunday), myself and friends, Daiva Chesonis & Steve Johnson, hiked up with the “big-rack” (all the cams you could want, to get up any natural feature imaginable, drill, anchor bolts and water made up most of the weight). This new area, The Game Wall, is located in Western Paradox Valley on BLM land. We established a new crack route 5.10-, 110’ called Gameboy and a killer face route just to the left of Gameboy, called Tetris, 5.11b, 90’. There are so many new routes to be done here!

Photo of Damon Johnston on FA of Gameboy, 10-, Rack: Camalots x 2 ea. of 0 -- .75, 3 x 1 & 2, and 2 ea. of 3 & 4. Photo by D. Chesonis 2008. The face to the left is Tetris, 5.11b.
So far we only have explored the western most part of the cliff (climbers left). So much more!

New Ice Climbs In Telluride

This is the winter of all winters in the Telluride area. With new ice climbs popping up all over, my self and Dan Goss hiked up about 1000 feet above the valley floor (one mile east of Telluride) to discover that the ice climb we had been scoping out for a week or so was not a short little melt climb, but rather a 140’ Grade 4-. We called it Secret Steps. The approach hike may turn some climbers away as it took us nearly two hours hiking in waist deep snow. Access to the cliff does cross private land but so long as you do not park on Royer Lane and rather walk, you should be fine. I drilled an two bolt anchor at the top of the climb. Rap: 25M. Photos by Dan Goss: Damon Johnston on FA of Secret Steps, WI4-R, Jan 18th, 2008. You don't get any real protection until your about 60' up the route.

There are many other new ice routes as well—more on these other routes in the near-future.