Marry Jane's Canyon - Big Gypsum - Colorado

This area was mentioned in The Wild Wild West Guide Book--referred to as Desert Dweller. And at the time of printing, there were only two climbs established on the wall. I have recently created a topo of this area as many new routes have been put up in Mary Jane's Canyon. Most notably, The Nomad, which climbs the arete just to the right / south of the 110', 5.9, Desert Dweller corner. There also a couple of climbs to the left / North of Desert Dweller that are in the process of becoming new routes. 

Desert Dweller, 5.9, 110' -- takes most gear "almost anywhere" up to wide hands. Bolt anchor. To the right you can see someone TR'ing the Wonderer, 10c, 100'. And the Arete between the two routes is the new NOMAD, 5.11+, 100'. All three are ***

Little Red Rocks, Paradox Valley, Colorado. FA: Don't Scare Your Mom, 5.11

 

Above: Wiley Holbrooke leading the FA of “Don’t Scare Your Mom”, 5.11, 80’. Gear: Very thin cams to thin hands, 3 QDs, Anchor Rig. Sunday Jan. 17th, 2021. Belay: Julie Hodson. Location: Little Red Rocks, Paradox Valley, Colorado.

This photo just had to lead into the days events. The look on Wiley’s face after solidly climbing through the crux on his first FA—an amazing feeling! We have been heading out to the desert at least once a week this winter so far. Little Red Rocks is, with out a doubt, one of the most beautify climbing spots in this part of Colorado.

Below are a few additional photos of Wiley on his FA. Last photo: Wiley on the second ascent of “Boomer Remover”, 5.10+. Eight bolts to anchor.

16Z New Route Update: Red Bull Area

So this new pitch is around the corner from Red Bull to the right, like you were going to scramble down into the cave. Called COVID19, 5.11, 60'--climb up the face, using the many horizontals and small face holds; 5 bolts to Anchor. Established by DJ and LD 2020. It is a very fun addition to this little area--shady after early am sun.

NEW TOWER ROUTES AT LITTLE RED ROCKS

Hello all! I have not posted much of late. However, we have been busy with other obligations (family). Here are two out of three new tower routes. The following is located on the tower you pass (hikers right) on your way up to the little red rocks main walls--with all the Huecos. The Watch Tower. It turns out that, the crack that had the blue-tat anchor on the back--north side of the tower was most likely put up on Aid, as the seam would require leapers to ascend. Therefore, Luca and I climbed the East crack, (gear to 3.5 Camalot, 70', 5.8), to access the towers top, not sure if this was an FA, but there were no visible indication of previous passage up this route--we are calling this East Crack. From a new anchor, we set the south face up to TR, clean / explore what if any of this face would be climbable. We ended up setting up a route, 10 bolts to an anchor, though the Hueco's--very fun climbing. It will still need some cleaning up as there was a good amount of loose flakes and small edges...we got what we could on the first round. This route will clean up to be a classic LRR climb for sure. FYI: The upper head-wall (the top 40') above the established new route, may one day go free, so I could see a second pitch at some point. This would be at least in the mid to upper 5.12 range. See photos below.

Boomer Remover, 5.10+, 80', 9 Bolts to Anchor. The rating could go up or down depending on how this route cleans up. 

Of note: Steve J and I put up a amazing route on the Tower of the Ancients few years back (just up and right from the parking lot--the tower tht has Petros on the North / Back side). Around and down, to access the West Face. This route will get its own post in the future. Need to locate photos. And as this will likely be one of the only routes to ever be put up here, we are just calling it Tower Of The Ancients***, 5.11, 100', FA: DJ, SJ.

Remembering Chris & Charlie

From the latest trip to 16Z -- we love and miss you both!!

Little Red Rocks - Dec 2011: Photos by Jim Hurst

Hedge stone for Paradox Valley: R.I.P.






Climbing in the dead of winter in a long-sleve-T-shirt...love the west end!!!! Also check out Jim Hurst Photography

Photos of Damon Johnston and Tom Shane, taken with iPhone 4s

Game Wall Update

Occupy Paradox, 5.11b (First Pitch Only); Steve and I headed up two weeks ago to establish a 300 foot crack route on the Game Wall. We ended up being snowed off. The upper pitches look like they will go in the 10 range. This is such a cool wall. THE EFFORT IS WORTH IT!

Moby Dick

This September Steve Johnson and I headed up to establish a new route on the prominent tower to the left of Ingram Falls (above Telluride’s Via Ferratta) only to discover that the “plum line” (right up the buttress of the tower) had been climbed. There were anchors every 200’. We did a little investigating and discovered that Mugs Stump (et.al.?) established this route in the mid to late 80’s (when he came back into town after having climbed the tower and “told fellow climber that he had just put up a new route high up at the end of the valley”. No one then really understood where, or so it seemed, at the time the exact location of what he was talking abut. (Though I am sure someone did, it never made it into any of the guidebooks etc—not that it really matters). In any event, the route is 1000’+, 5.10a/b R, and has a lot of loose rock all over it—a classic alpine rock climb to be sure. It protects “ok” in places with wires and nuts—bring a double set, some cams are handy too, and wide stuff for the top. See photo. More can be done here—and will be soon.

UPDATE: I'm pretty sure this line was climbed by James Williamson and Bob Dergay in the early 2000's. When they did it they described it as the plumb line up the prominent tower below ajax with poor pro and anchors every 200'. I've got an email with the topo sent to Bob to see if he can verify. Might be good to know the FA info for historical accuracy. I'll let you know if I get any conclusive reports.

--Andrew Temple