Moby Dick

This September Steve Johnson and I headed up to establish a new route on the prominent tower to the left of Ingram Falls (above Telluride’s Via Ferratta) only to discover that the “plum line” (right up the buttress of the tower) had been climbed. There were anchors every 200’. We did a little investigating and discovered that Mugs Stump (et.al.?) established this route in the mid to late 80’s (when he came back into town after having climbed the tower and “told fellow climber that he had just put up a new route high up at the end of the valley”. No one then really understood where, or so it seemed, at the time the exact location of what he was talking abut. (Though I am sure someone did, it never made it into any of the guidebooks etc—not that it really matters). In any event, the route is 1000’+, 5.10a/b R, and has a lot of loose rock all over it—a classic alpine rock climb to be sure. It protects “ok” in places with wires and nuts—bring a double set, some cams are handy too, and wide stuff for the top. See photo. More can be done here—and will be soon.

UPDATE: I'm pretty sure this line was climbed by James Williamson and Bob Dergay in the early 2000's. When they did it they described it as the plumb line up the prominent tower below ajax with poor pro and anchors every 200'. I've got an email with the topo sent to Bob to see if he can verify. Might be good to know the FA info for historical accuracy. I'll let you know if I get any conclusive reports.

--Andrew Temple

Towers Of Ajax

The Crystal Line
5.9x, 900'; FA: Steve Johnson & Damon Johnston

Wild Wild West Out Of Print

OK, it is time to come clean, The Wild Wild West guidebook, best known for its desert wingate climbs on Carpenter Ridge, Red Rocks, 16Z, Psycho Tower, EE22 rd et. al., is officially out of print. If you have a copy save it in a safe place. There will most likely not be a reprint of this guide. I will however, in my spare time, work on a guide to these areas for the net. This may take some time to complete, no holding you breath.

Carly Crag - Just Outside Rico Colorado

The Carly Crag is a treasure of a climbing area. Though there are not a ton of routs there, they are all worth the drive and small approach. 9 miles outside of Rico (heading towards Cortez) on the left is Hillside Road. Drive up Hillside Rd for exactly 9 miles, this will bring you to the middle of a switchback—you will be right in between both cliffs. They can be found on the right side of the road. Hike down the steep bank to access the top of the cliffs (each cliff has a trail of sorts heading down to the right allowing access to the cliff base). Many good routes from 5.9 to 5.12+). We have not named all of the routes yet, but I will make a Topo at some point in the future. The area is shaded by trees in summer (nice cool place). Bugs can be present at times. This area has been kept on the DL for years. Photos by C. Fowler 2006).

MOUNTAIN FILM IN TELLURIDE

This years Mountainfilm event was amazing! Click on the link to see who won the best of the fest. My favorites include:

Bag ItTry going a day without plastic. Go ahead. You’d be hard pressed to get out of bed without encountering the substance in one form or another. Plastic is everywhere and infiltrates our lives in unimaginable and alarming ways according to Suzan Beraza’s documentary, which is getting its first finished screening here in Telluride. What starts as a film about plastic bags, evolves into a wholesale investigation into plastic and its effect on our lives, bodies and waterways. Starring Telluride local Jeb Berrier, playing the role of the “everyman” (those of us who know him realize that this role is a stretch), the film travels around the world, from Telluride to Midway Island. As we learn more about how little we know about plastic, one thing becomes certain: The advice given to Dustin Hoffman’s character, Ben, in The Graduate—“One word: Plastics”—was right on.

—DH

http://www.bagitmovie.com

I AM

http://www.iamthemovie.net/

Social Events

Ad Burgess, "BUSTED" (photo below)!

THE BURN AT THE MINE! (photo to come).

New Game Wall Routes

There are so many new route possibilities on this wall! Steve and I put up two new ones recently (April 2010). Sorry the climbing photos are not better. The two routes can be seen by finding the drill dust lines on the wall (don’t worry they are gone by now, after light rain). They are just right of center / large corner system (unclimbed). The bottom of the two routes are not visible in the photo. The left route is 5.10a and the right route is 10c. There will be second and third pitches on these two routes in the future. Click the photo to see large image. Also, the Wild Wild West Guide Book is now out of print (sorry printing is to $'ly).


Steve, on TR. Nice corner to left!

Another Day In Disappointment Valley

As if the Just Do It Area (The Appointment / Slap Happy / Just Do It / Spin Cycle …) was not enough of a stellar find, the discovery, or more accurately, the rediscovery of an area. One of those areas that you have always meant to come back to, two years ladder—give or take. Anyway, the Fox Den (not really) is a welcome addition of very steep bouldering—some of the steepest we have found in the last four-plus years.

Bouldering problems like this come along so infrequently. Paul working it out on an new, unfinished problem. There are three other routes along this wall that will be stellar as well.

Fox Trot was the our main reason for our trip (1/15/10) to Disappointment Valley. It is long, overhanging for twenty feet, and offers just enough pockets, edges, and heal /toe hooks to provide a very pumpy V3+ (+ for the pump). Above is Paul leading with his feet.

Fox Trot: Paul rounding the overhang and beginning the climb up the face to the top-out.

Jim on the the warm-down, end of the day. A bit of last light.