There Is No Place Like This...!

Photo by Damon Johnston © 2008: Climber on new project just outside Moab, UT. 

UPDATE: 3-26-08: OK, it is just outside of Moab, off the Potash Rd, just a few miles past the climbs. Corona Arch Trail, just a few minutes up the trail (stay in the drainage). Dean Potter sent this problem some time ago and the word is out. Which is why I have changed the above photo and replaced the "Sorry, someplace near Moab, UT" with this new update. This area offers many high-ball problems that will keep your attention for days, weeks or months. Bring a lot of pads and friends to spot you!!!!

The Sugar Boulders

Another Season Begins

The weather is becoming perfect. And once again we stumbled upon boulder treasure. Several new high quality boulders and problems came out of this past weeks’ efforts out in Disappointment Valley. This photos was taken of friend Paul on Tumble Weed V3+ (a good warm up for the area). The beginning of the route starts about five body lengths lower down on the boulder—sit start. The underside of the boulder offers many V2 moves before heading out over the top (crux). The days out there are some of the best you could ask for—magic, new problems on new boulders, … one day after the next—we are lucky!

Season Projects

The season has brought out the best in many. A rough summer in the Telluride area for climbers—rain has made life, well, we have not climbed that much in the past two months. But a few people were out there getting-in what they could regardless. Todd Rector and friend Lance Waring (and others) established a note worthy addition to the routes in Upper Bear Creek: Gesus! 5.13a/b. (Photo: Lance Waring heading up to the pumpy overhanging crux moves just five body lengths away—making this the first clean ascent of Gesus!). The Sesame Street area has but few routes. You guest it, Bert & Ernie (two very fun warm-up 5.10’s). Most notable, Big Bird a classic 5.12d that will keep your attention the whole time your on it—and if your on to long, the Bird will take off leaving you in the air, with only the chalk on your hands and the sweat dripping from you brow to show for you extensive efforts. This area has a total of 8 established routes from 5.8 to 5.13a/b. The quality of which will keep me coming back time and again!

Location: Sesame Street
Approach: 2 miles / 1 hour and 15 minutes +/-
What’s New: Gesus!
Grade: 5.13a/b
Other Notable Routes In The Area: Big Bird, 5.12d / 13a
Photos: Todd and Lance making hard efforts on Gesus!

Undercover-A New Season Begins

Under Clouds—Steve Johnson and I had the continued privilege to establish another new route just above the Mine that sits above Telluride. Shown above, the main crack system in the middle of the face. Pitch 1: ascends a slightly grungy left facing corner, then up ledges that take you up and right to an anchor (Gear: small fingers to hands). Pitch 2: head up and right then work your way up and left, past four bolts into the OW up to the anchor (Gear: 5 draws, Camalots up to #6). Pitch 3: continue up the OW/crack breaking right just before the top passing two bolts on fun easy face-climbing (Gear: Camalot to #6 and two draws). Careful, there is very loose rock on the top ledge 300 ft up. At this point you need two ropes for this route as the top pitch is 130’ and with two 60m lines you can make the ground from the second anchor—saving on time.

FA: Undercover, 5.9R, three pitches. Damon Johnston & Steve Johnson 5-19-07.

Up Up & Away

A lot has happened in the past few months. Most notably, I have been exploring a new bouldering area just outside Slickrock Colorado with friends. The bouldering is world-class. The rock is clean. The access is BLM. Best of all, you can do many problems in a day (depending on how hard they are) and everything you do has not been done by anyone else. Grades are between V0 and V7 so far and there are many amazing lines that will go at a much higher grade. This is a taste of what we are up too. The above photo is of Andy Cook on Spin-Cycle V6.
Below Dan Goss fires up another classic V3.


So, many new routes...(left) Paul Pierce on a "totally-killer" V6; (mid. Paul on a new V3; (right) Paul getting air.

Gypsum Gap Boulders

Four Friends, Three Pads, Two Six-Packs Of Beer And One Uncharted Bouldering Area.

In an attempt to find some form of climbing that is not far from the paved road—as the weather was taking a turn for the worst and there is nothing more exciting than driving the “clay-dirt” roads just outside of Disappointment Valley—Jim, Karen, Daiva and I went looking for boulders. Out of the vehicles for the first time in hours, Jim and I went for a bit of a jaunt. At first, the quality of what we were finding was not impressive. Later, back at the car, Jim said he had found a few boulders over a ridge that where worth a better look. So, what do we all do, we gear up and head-out. With clouds looming over head and rain eminent, we cached out pads and packs under an overhang at the first boulder we encountered and took off again in search of “it”—convinced it would rain before we would get a chance to climb. Boulder after boulder, we became convinced that the area had potential—OK it’s not the “mother-load” we were all hoping for, but it’ll do. Then we turned an observational corner and there “it” was (see photo ).


After an extensive examination of the boulders and convinced we would come back in the morning, we were “charged”—our motivation was very high. Back at our cache—it was not yet raining—we broke out the pads and got to work clearing landings, cleaning holds and working problems. Four hours, three boulders, two beers and a fist full of problems climbed, the sound of thunder and a wall of rain heading our way, we charged back to the car. Just in time.


Normally, soft rock such as this cannot be climbed on after a serious soaking. Bummer for us! What to do? Head home, camp…. But the bouldering looked so damn good. The idea of setting up the tents in a down poor was not worth entertaining. We pulled our cars closer. After a minute of talking out loud, we decided to stick it out—in a cheep (very cheep) motel.

We would be back in the morning! And what a day we had. We wasted ourselves…by 5:00 pm we could climb no more. Here is some of what we found (photos).

And there is more! More what? More ridges, more boulders, more climbing—lots more!

Telluride Area Ice Conditions 2006/2007

Ice is here to stay. Winter is early. Here is a photo of BV Falls take 12-10-06.. Ingram Falls in connected, but still has a way to go to be considered before it can be considered “full” conditions. If your looking for a challenge Ingram may be for you!
Bear Creek ice is in good condition. Ames Falls is in also—slabs on the left and the main falls are climbable. Silver Pick Falls is in but thin (I have not been to the base yet this year, I have seen it from the road). It is snowing hard right now (8:00am 12-11-06). The Telluride Ski Area has accumulated well over 12 inches thus far (last 24 hrs) and there is no sign of it letting up. Climb safe!

Tabeguache Climbing Area

Tabeguache climbing area is a hidden treasure sporting just over 14 bolted sport routes; albeit not easy to find, located well off the beaten path and easier to show on a map than to attempt to describe in words. But here goes; From Naturita, make a right on 97 (this will take you right to Nucla). Once in Nucla continue north to the end of town—continue straight along this road (97/Main St), it will begin heading west/left. Right on 27 Rd., stay left (27 Rd. will head off to the right)…you will now be on AA Rd (heading west). Right at Z26 Rd (north), and make a left at the “T” (staying on Z26 Rd.). This road will descend into a canyon and back up to a mesa. Once on the mesa heading north about a mile or so, look for a two-track road on the right (take this right). In a little ways you should pass an old crane (from the 50’s), then a fence (leave it how you found it). Then you come to a 4-way intersection (of the two-track dirt road type)—continue straight (same direction you are heading). From this intersection drive about 1/4 mile…look for an even less distinguishable road on your left—take it. This road will continue for some time and eventually begin to head left/west—this is the roughest part of the drive…look for a big, flat and seemingly open area to park. Look for a trail that heads to the top of the cliff—head left along the cliff. You will see anchors along the top of the cliff. Rap in or look for the weakness in the cliff (about 10 minutes hike). Also see The Wild Wild West climbing guide for a map (p. 172). I will create topo’s for this area in the future (as soon as I can use Illustrator on my MacBook Pro). Photo: Charlie Fowler on The Clean Air Standard, 5.11-. Other *** (three star) routes include Lichen It Alot, 5.10-, Tumbling Tumbleweeds, 5.11-, and Fair And Balanced, 5.11.

Back In Business

Just a warning for anyone attempting to run (CS2) Photoshop, InDesign and/or Illustrator on the new MacBook Pro—Do not load VQ or InDesign. Photoshop and Illustrator seem to run, albeit slowly for some people. Rosetta-the interface program designed interpret non-Universal programs on the new Intel System-is not designed to run CS2. Also, both Apple and Adobe say that CS2 is not compatable with the new MacBook Pro system. For more info from Apple. CS3 is on the way and is expected to be out in the next 6 to 12 months. Needles to say, I learned all this the hard way—several system crashes and many total reloads of my entire system (pain in the axx). So you have not seen may posts from me—sorry. I am back in business.

Also, just in case you are interested, I am now using Aperture to manage and edit photos for my blogs; I love it. This program rules for managing most aspects of your digital photos. It can not replace Photoshop for detailed photo manipulations, but it does the basics for dealing with Raw format photos.

Look forward to posting more…here is a photo from climbing up at the Falls Walls near Telluride this summer. No new routes up at this area, just beautiful views and fun climbs. This area has seen a lot of traffic this summer.

The Michelin Wall

For the past several weeks, I along with other good friends (Mark Dean, Charlie Fowler, Daiva Chesonis, Chris Boskoff) have been exploring more of the Telluride Conglomerate rock just west of the Pipeline Wall. So far we have been finding many high-quality routes. This topo includes some of our new routes established thus far. Access to these routes is not yet secured, in the legal sense that is. The Idarado Mining Company currently maintains some 361 mining claims, representing an estimated 7,435 acres of land holdings in the San Juan region. Much of this land will revert back to public lands in the near future. Until the land transfer is complete, however, it is best to approach this area via the standard Pipeline Wall access—though this will be a bit of an approach/bush-whack, the quality of the routes will make it worth the trouble. The upper right photo is DJ on the FA of Zen Lemonade.

The Routes (including those not on this topo)—from West to East/Left to Right:
1) Trans Lunar Injection Burn, 5.11-, 3 Pitches. FA: DJ, MD, (DJ, CF, MD on Pitch 1; DJ & MD on Pitches 2 & 3). Pitch 1, 5.10-, (full 60m pitch) heads up a face to the right of the large broken-up (chossy) corner. Once you hit the steep head wall (just over 1/2 way up), head left into the crack for a few moves (you will use the crack for protection from here up. Traverse right across the ledge (second from the highest ledge) to the anchor. Gear 12 QD’s and two anchor rigs. Protection: .5 to #4 Camalots. Pitch 2, 5.11-,heads up the buttress 105’ to the next anchor (crux pitch). You can leave you natural gear from here on out and retrieve it on the way down—just draws and anchors. Pitch 3, 5.9+, 100’. Continue up the steep headwall for a few moves to the slab above. The grade backs off and the bolts are further part (PG 13, say). There is a small 4th pitch that leads to the large ledge above (I am recommending that climbers rap rather than walk off this route—mostly to avoid dropping rocks below-low 5th class down climbing/4th class should be expected). Rap.
2) Thunder Road, 5.9+, 1 Pitch (for now). This is a fun warm-up. You need 13 draws and something for the anchor. Fun route! Rap. FA: DJ, MD, CF, DC 6-06.
3) Zen Lemonade, 5.11-, 3 Pitches. Pitch 1, begin by climbing a roof to a steep face—100’. Pitch 2, head up and slightly left into the base of the large corner (the crux is climbing into the corner from below) 100’. Pitch 3, continues up the corner for a few body lengths then heads out and right onto the face (bolts) 100’. Gear: thin to wide hands, 12 draws, and two anchor rigs. Rap. FA: DJ, MD, CF 6-06.
4) Hokey Pokey, 5.9+ R, 1 Pitch (for now). Climb the left facing corner for 100’. Gear: lots of hands to OW (bring the big stuff). There are no bolts on this route but there may end up being a few in the near future as the OW is almost chimney like in a few places.

Routes 5—8 are east (up hill…not in photo). Charlie and Chris established a 4 pitch arête route that goes at 5.11…and they did a few single pitches to the right (east) of that. More on these routes soon.

There are several more routes to do in this area. At the moment I am waiting for more bolts from Petzl. There is also a lot of info to report from a “top-secret” area south of Rico (here is a photo Julie Hodson on a “fresh” route). More on this area later, but many, many new routes at the Carly Crag.

The Mine Fields

After another visit to the surrounding boulder fields that are passed on the way to the 16Z climbing area expectations changed. But not for the worse, on Saturday (4/29/06) a rather large posy of climbers met in the epicenter of what we have come to realize is not a scattering of a few good boulders amongst a mass rubble heap, but a “mother-load” of superb, very high quality, boulders.

In the first four hours of cleaning off holds, buffing out landings and jumping on problems I realized that this place has some of the best bouldering I have ever done. Over two days I climbed on five boulders with problems ranging into V4 to V7. With the number of boulders out there we are expecting to find some seriously difficult problems. Here are a few photos of what we climbed and worked on.



Location: .5 miles west of the junction of 16Z rd & U29 rd (right and left sides of the valley).

Recommendations: Bring a lot of pads as many of the boulders are high and the landings are in the process of being modified. A nylon brush (in a few sizes) seems to work well on this sandstone. Bring lots of water!



Restrictions: The boulders are on BLM. There is established camping at the main parking are for 16Z (a few miles down the road to the west). Please do not create new camping in or near the boulders—we want to stay on the good side of the land managers.

16Z to Clay Creek

Over the past few weeks I have enjoyed the desert with good friends. 16Z has many amazing routes, few people and next to magical camping. On my last trip out there we “discovered” several high quality boulders (in quotations because many people have talked about having walked through them before). Since that time a few friends have gone back to clear landings and work various problems on many boulders. This area is accessed from the 16Z road and is encountered about half way to the main climbing area.

(Photos of this area and bouldering are forthcoming). See photo of Charlie Fowler on one of 16Z’s classic crack routes!

Another area visited recently is Clay Creek, location just outside of Norwood CO. This area has about 50 routes ranging from 40 to 50+ feet high—short but fun climbing. The short approach and sunny weather has made this area popular with the Ridgeway, Ouray, Telluride climbing contingent. It is possible to leave the mountains in Jan/Feb/Mar, where temperatures are near freezing, and encounter favorable temps and sunny conditions. See photo of Charlie on the first route established in this area, Dr. Evil, 5.11-.

A Few Routes More

4-8-206: Up on the Sunshine Slabs (Y11/River Rd, 5.5 Miles north of Paradox Valley) Charlie and I established three new routes. The first route we did was just to the left of Dog-Collared-Women (see Blog below) that ascends a thin corner/seam through an overhang and finished up a thin face. We called this route Maybe Maybe Not, 5.11-, thin gear in the beginning then past three bolts (this route uses D-C-W’s anchor). Then to the climber’s left of this (and two the right of Manic Monday) we did two new crack lines: Donkey Kong Jr., 5.8, 70’ (a hand to thin hand crack in a corner that traverses left using a flake to the top—it was possible to place a 3.5 Camalot) and Donkey Kong, 5.9, 90’ (wide hands to OW—lots of big gear—Camalots #6 x 2, #5 x 1, #4.5 x 1, #4 x 2, #3.5 x 2, #3 x 4, #2 x 3). The beginning of this route takes some figuring-out. My only hint: Look for face holds.

Another Killer Day In Southeast Utah

Comb Ridge, UT: Mark and I were able to slip in two new routes while clouds were rolling in from the west yesterday (3.31.2006). The first route we did we called Beer Goggles & Binos, 5.10. Mark began the first pitch to the right of the main corner which involves a fifty-foot traverse. I headed up the corner about 85 feet to a ledge inside a chimney. The gear (in order, Camalots): #2, #3, #4, #1, #2, #1, #1, .75 X many, .5 and a #1 and/or a 4.5 for the top is helpful.

Next, Mark ascended a fun crack/seam/face/flake up 95 feet and established an anchor. The route requires some tricky gear placements, ranging from a #4 Camalot and thin wires down low, to hands and .3 Camalots in the flake up high. Reaching the anchor, from exiting the flake, is the most committing move on the route. Mark named the route Amara, 5.10 (PG 13).

At the end of the day, just before the rain began, Mark and I took a walk along the cliff base just to get an idea of future projects. There were several thin finger corners and a few hand and OW sized routes to be done.

photo: Mark starting up Amara, 5.10 (PG 13), placing a #4 Camalot.

Temporary Closure Of Mary Jane Draw

Paul Morey, Wildlife Biologist for the Dolores Public Lands Office Wrote:

“ …because the [peregrine's ] nest is likely somewhere within the Mary Jane Draw, we are going to have to put a closure into effect for the draw until the end of July. We will continue to monitor the canyon and if we decide the eyrie is either not in or near the draw, or we determine the eyrie has failed, the closure can be lifted before the end of July. Being a climber myself, it's always hard to put even temporary closures on climbing areas. But in this case, it's necessary for the peregrine's protection”.

I will update this blog if the closure is lifted before the end of July.

San Juan National Forest
San Juan BLM Resource Area
P.O. Box 210
Dolores, CO 81323
(970) 882-6853

(photo of Mark Dean on the Wonderer 5.10, Mary Jane Draw)

COMB RIDGE, UT

Location: Southeastern Utah.The crack gods looked upon us favorably this past weekend. Mark Dean and I had the great honor of climbing several new high quality pitches, on pristine wingate rock, for the first time. We did not arrive at the cliff base until just after 1:00 pm on Friday. The route we climbed that day we called Formula One, 5.11+, two pitches. Pitch 1: fingers in a corner (140’). Pitch 2: OW to wide hands with a very tricky exit at the top—100’—see photo of Mark as he begins the OW of the second pitch. Just to the left of this route is a fun 140’ high 5.9 (no-name yet). And a bit further west we fired up an amazing hand crack for 105’—called Bucket Of Lizards, 5.10+ (see photo of DJ on the sharp end, photo by Daiva Chesonis).

Destroyed Simplicity

Up on Carpenter Ridge, new route activity is ongoing. Ben Clark and I established a new route to the east of the Paradise Wall-on the Bonanza Wall. We called it Destroyed Simplicity, 5.11, C1. The C1 will go free once the route sees a bit more cleaning. There is at least one additional pitch to add to this route, as well as a fun looking (but wide) two pitch route to the east of our route. At the moment, all roads to this area are over private property. There where no "NO Truspassing" sings on the way Ben and I used to make the approach drive. To date there are only a few routes in this area (as of March 18, 2006).

Also, Charlie Fowler and Chris Boskoff were busy putting the finishing touches on beautiful new route they called The Badger State, 5.11. To read more about their adventure Click-Here.

The Sunshine Slabs Update

3-4-06: These incredibly fun slabs can be found just 5.5 north of Paradox Valley just off Y11 and/or River Road. This area has many moderate to easy climbs (5.8 to 5.10), most are two pitches and Manic Monday, the areas highest route, climbs three fun pitches up 300 feet. This week Charlie and I added two 70’ pitches to Road To Nowhere (5.8+). The first pitch is really an “approach pitch” to better climbing above. To the far right (past Manic Monday) we added a stellar 70’ arête/face climb we called Dog-Collared Women, 5.8. These south facing slabs provide the perfect location for winter rock climbing in the sun. Many of these routes require natural protection…for more info visit Wild Wild West Guide Book.

Telluride Ice Conditions Winter 2006

3-2-06: Temps were in the upper 50's and it did not freez last night. This does not look good for ice conditions. NOAA's forcast for Friday

3-3-06: 20% of chance of snow, high is 39 degrees (F), cooling in the evening, only to heat up through the weekend. I will make an update to this next week.

3-5-05: Well, the temps here were in the 50's (over that in the sun). A good friend of mine, Ben Clark, went out to climb at the Ames Falls and reported the climb was a dripping mess. Unless we get some cold temps several days in a row there may not be a recovery for the Ice in and around Telluride. Over all rating is poor-on the way to nonexistant.

3-8-06: Temps cooled off last night and as of 8:00am there was about 7 inches of new snow in the Telluride Area (and there is no sign of it slowing). Not sure if this will help the ice conditions, but the skiing conditions are improved (for a few days). Snow and cooler temps are in the forcast for rest of this week.

3-12-06: The Telluride area has had more than 30 inches of new snow (and it snowed last night for some time). The ice has improved some in that time. Cooler temps and no sun over the past several days has stopped rapped retreat of ice. In fact, new ice has accumulated on some routes. Overall conditions are still Poor, but are heading up the scale twards Moderate. The skiing in the Area is the best it has been all year!

3-15-06: Temps were warm on Tuesday the 14th, melting a lot of ice (anything in the sun). My good friend Charlie had this to say about the ice conditions "We went to Ames Falls yesterday morning [12th] and did a bunch of laps. The ice was cold but brittle and junky from too many warm days". Last night temps were warm (it did not freez at 9000'). Today will bring more warm temps. Ice conditions are still Poor in the Telluride area and are heading fast towards "hang up your ice tools, break out your cams".

3-22-06: The Ice has grown a bit (see new photos). Over all conditions are still Poor. This week, temps have been cool and the area has seen some cloud cover. Heading out to the desert this weekend.